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Shawl Collar Cardigans - 150 Years of History

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It's perhaps not a bad time of the year to revisit the shawl collar cardigan. Many clothiers are having sales at this time of the year, and with a bit of searching and prudence, one might find a great sweater that will be serviceable for years to come. I have a green lovat shawl collar cardigan that has been with me for 26 years. My siblings gifted me with this as a remembrance of their travels in across 'the pond' one summer. This sweater was purchased in Inverness, Scotland and when I received it, it already had a ticket for Edinburgh Castle in one of the pockets. They told me later that they used the sweater as it was cold, thereby breaking it in a bit and giving it a bit of a story, as well. This sweater was made by the UK manufacturer, Peter Storm, in the 1980s. Though the name Peter Storm is still in existence, the company no longer makes this kind of high quality knitwear. This is an incredibly heavy, thick sweater and came with that company's "A1" waterproofing, which they claimed would last the life of the garment, as long as it wasn't dry cleaned. To the best of my knowledge, I've never sent this to the cleaners, so I should be set for anything in this.

Peter Storm was founded by former Royal Marine, Noel Bibby after the Second World War in 1954, and made very high quality foul weather gear. As close as I have been able to understand, Peter Storm was sold after Bibby's death in 1989. The company made very good rain jackets and cagoules (anoraks). I also have one of their raincoats, which is lightweight and perfect for spring walks with the dog in the rain.


The Peter Storm tag on my sweater displays the "W1 Proofed Made in Gt. Britain" - the mark of the genuine article. 


These are not my sweaters, though I wouldn't mind having any of them! I found this image on the internet somewhere, and have kept it tucked away in a file. Peter Storm also made heavy gauge crew neck sweaters with the same W1 waterproofing. Man, how I wish this company was still doing this.


About 25 years ago. My clothing choices haven't changed a whole lot: tan cords, tattersall button-downs, and a black wool tie that I wish I still had. 


I have a few cardigans with collars. The ones on the left and in the middle are from my wife, and whenever wear them I am reminded of the lovely person who gifted them to me. The history of the shawl collar cardigan is connected with Lieutenant General James Thomas Brudenell (1797-1868), 7th Earl of Cardigan, who served as a British officer in the Crimean War. In 1854, during the Battle of Balaclava, he was ordered to lead a cavalry assault against a well-defended Russian cannon emplacement. The calvary assault, though it ended with high casualties and retreat for the British, was immortalized in Alfred, Lord Tennyson's poem "The Charge of the Light Brigade." As a part of his uniform, Brudenell supposedly wore a knit jacket with a fur shawl collar and gold braids. Brudenell returned to England from the war, a national hero, and the sweater version of his uniform, minus the fur and gold braids, became a popular success. Since then, for over 150 years, many makers have offered the celebrated sweater.


Brooks Brothers, Christmas 1971. (207) "Our exclusive hand-knitted ribbed bulky Shetland wool cardigan in a hip length model with shawl collar. Knitted exclusively for us in Scotland in mustard mix, white, medium grey, or navy."


Brooks Brothers, Christmas, 1979. (C) "Handsome shawl collar cardigan of ribbed 3-ply Shetland wool with leather buttons. Can easily serve in lieu of a sport jacket. Natural or grey."


 L.L. Bean, Christmas 1985.


More recently, other makers have offered the shawl collar cardigan. Chester Barrie and Tie Your Tie (made by Fedeli, perhaps) are two great examples above (Image: Zino, 10/2007).


Cruciani and Pringle of Scotland also offered excellent examples of the shawl cardigan (Image: Zino, 10/2007).


Japanese select shop, Septis has offered a handknit version by Intervallen.

Berk also offers a very traditional version of the shawl cardigan in a heavy rib knit.

White of Hawick, as well, offers a heavy gauge rib knit version.

Orvis also offers a heavy weight version of this classic.

O'Connell's heavy gauge version looks to be about the closest in weight to the Peter Storm version. I have no idea if it is "A1 Proofed" or not.


Ben Silver offers a choice of colors and this sweater looks both heavy and soft.



Peter Johnston also offers a very heavy looking version with a heavy price tag.


If I was going to get another, however, my choice would by this Drake's of London version, in either flannel grey (above) or, 

 the navy, above, that is pictured on their tumblr.

Of course, the navy version looked great on President John F. Kennedy, but then, nearly anything did.

A shawl collar cardigan is a very versatile sweater and will keep one warm and dry. It can be worn instead of a sport coat, with or without a tie; and it can also be worn under a hunting jacket, as above. It is no wonder that this ideal sweater quickly gained a following that has continued for over 150 years. So, if you wear a shawl collar cardigan, remember the Earl of Cardigan, and his famous 'charge of the light brigade' - even if the only charging you are making is a dash across town to pick up a repaired Black Watch umbrella.

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