One of the pleasures of cordovan is the variation of color and patina that this leather gains as it ages. Unlike shoes made from calfskin, which tends to age fairly uniformly, cordovan shoes, even of the same pair, often age very differently. This is usually more noticeable on shoes that are made from several pieces of cordovan, for example wing tips and cap toes. The straight tip, or cap toe bluchers above are a good example of this aging process. Some folks may not like this type of color variation over time, but I happen to like it. It reminds me that leather is always undergoing an aging process that is often out of my control.
I like to leave the trees in the shoes when polishing because it is just easier for me to apply polish and to buff them. After removing the laces, I lightly wipe down the shoes with a well-wrung out damp cloth, and then immediately wipe them with a dry cloth. I usually use two polishes when working on cordovan: Alden's paste wax and Alden's boot cream. Paste wax works best when applied in a very thin coat, and allowed to dry for a couple of minutes before polishing it off. I usually do the shoes in sections, i.e., the caps, the vamps, and the eyelet and quarter areas. I have found this is easier than doing the shoe all at once. Paste wax takes no small amount of elbow grease to remove, so time and diligent polishing is of the essence. I then sometimes will follow this with a very thin coat of Alden boot cream, which also must be thoroughly buffed off. The result is a glossy sheen that is quite different than that of calfskin.
Polished Alden Perforated Tip Balmoral Oxfords (#9015) in burgundy. These shoes are made on Alden's Hampton last, which has a very traditional and elegant silhouette. I like the Hampton last quite a bit. Shoes made on this last are very comfortable and easy wearing even when one has to walk a fair amount over the course of a day.
Polished Alden for Brooks Brothers, Straight Tip Blucher Oxfords in burgundy. These shoes are made on the Snap last, whereas the Alden version of this shoe is made on the Aberdeen last. The Snap last has a bit more toe room than the Aberdeen last, making these extremely easy wearing shoes. These shoes also have a double sole and may be about the most comfortable pair of shoes that I own.
Though both shoes bear different imprints, the stamping near the heel and the sole stitching attest to their being finished in the same factory.
In direct sunlight, color variations, imperfections and stains, such as the small water spots, are readily apparent. I usually don't wear cordovan if rain is forecast, but sometimes the weather forecast has been wrong and I have gotten caught in the rain. The spots only add to the patina of cordovan.
I'm not sure if Brooks Brothers still offers this style or not, as their website no longer features it. I hope that this does not mean the abandonment of this style. These shoes are real workhorses, and another pair wouldn't be a bad idea.
Placing both styles side by side is a good way to compare these two classics. Though they are both the same size and width, side by side the basic differences between the Snap and Hampton lasts become readily apparent. The Hampton last is trimmer with a narrower toe than those made on the Snap last, and the bluchers are a bit heavier and wider in appearance than the Balmorals made on the Hampton last. I wear both with suits as well as with odd trousers and jackets. The bluchers, however, also work well with cords and khakis for more casual occasions. However, both styles are excellent choices for everyday wear. They are comfortable, versatile and well designed. There are some who may perhaps find them a bit boring and staid, but I believe this is part of their enduring appeal. These are classic shoes that will last for years, quietly going about their business thereby transcending the come and go trends and fads of fashion. If that makes these shoes boring, then I wish only to continue in this style for years to come.
