If you have ever followed Japanese magazines or even been somewhat awed in the slightest by the ability of these magazines to consistently organize and analyze style trends in the West, then you might be interested in a small Japanese book that was published in 1867 by Fukuzawa Yukichi under the pseudonym of Katayama Junnosuke. The book is titled Seiyô ishokujyû (『西洋衣食住』、literally, "Western Clothing, Food, Interiors"), though it might also might as easily be rendered as "Daily Items of the West." I have long thought of this little hand-bound book as sort of the granddaddy to contemporary Japanese men's magazines and books that seek to organize and introduce new trends of the West for the contemporary Japanese market. Magazines such as...
Men's Club 1972, Special Ivy Issue No. 1. Amazing issue chock full of photos of proto-prep emerging from the hippyness of the late 1960s and early 1970s, if it ever really fully emerged from the hippy influence. 1970s prep always had a bit of scruffiness to it.
Men's Club, 12/1978 "American Traditional." Full-on late 1970s prep with the notable inclusion of prep schools and The Prep Shop.
Men's Club, 12/1979 "What is Preppie?" A year before The Official Preppy Handbook, Men's Club was busy reporting on and categorizing the reality that was prep in late 1970s America.
Men's Club, 12/1981 "Ivy - Part 2, Dressing Manual" I only have one of these, but there are several issues that include photos of colleges from this period.
LAST, 5/2003 No. 1. There are also magazines dedicated to only shoes. This is the launch issue of LAST, which is still being published.
Men's EX, 10/2002 "High Grade Shoes - A Reader" Men's EX has published several of these, of which the launch issue is arguably the best. I covers the full range of quality men's shoes the world over by country, including bespoke makers.
Men's EX, 7/2007 "Italian Fashion - Q&A" This issue is a minor masterpiece. I am more prep-Anglophile, but there is much here that makes perfectly good sense.
And, the above issue of LEON was pretty amazingly organized. The thoughts of these men make for interesting reading.
Free & Easy, 1/2010 "The Garment Tweed." This is basically a textbook about tweed, its history and manufacture. It even distinguishes the various types of sheep according to region. It is a noteworthy issue for anyone interested in tweed.
Men's Precious, Spring 2011. The name is what it is because there is a women's magazine titled Precious, by the same publisher. This issue had a feature on England's Royal Warrants titled, "Fabulous Royal Warrant!" It's another textbook-like look at the British institution of the Royal Warrant. For anyone who considers themselves even a luke-warm Anglophile, it would be essential reading.
Snap LEON, 6/2011. LEON comes out with these a couple of times a year, which feature photos mainly of Pitti Uomo. The issues are organized into sections on jackets, suits, trousers, shoes and further organized by color. Not always my own style, but exceedingly entertaining and extremely well put together - definitely a night stand magazine. This sort of magazine exhibits the best of the above magazines - traveling the world over to get the story on menswear, in the tradition of what Fukuzawa began in 1867, but continued in today's context. Each of the above magazines is a bit different, but the methodology of categorization is essentially the same - focusing on clothing, food and interiors.
The author of Seiyô ishokujyû was Fukuzawa Yukichi (1835-1901), the founder of Keio-Gijuku University, an educator, Enlightenment thinker, Dutch Learning scholar, translator, journalist and statesman. Of course, he is also pictured on Japan's largest denomination 10,000 Yen banknote. Originally a Dutch Learning scholar (rangaku), Fukuzawa made the transition to English, and became an official translator for the Bakufu government before the Meiji Restoration in 1868. After the ratification of the 1859 Ansei Trade Treaties that opened Japan to trade and cultural exchange with the West, Fukuzawa was included in Japan's first diplomatic mission to the United States in 1859. He also traveled to Europe on Japan's first official European diplomatic mission in 1862. His book Seiyô jijô ("Things Western"), and along with many others, introduced to nineteenth century Japan many aspects of Western thought. Fukuzawa wrote on a wide range of topics from political science, to education, to military strategy. Among his early writings is the small book introduced in this post, titled Seiyô ishokujyû. I have included the book in its entirety below, with a couple of sections translated and comments below.
Viewed today, this small book might appear deceptively unsophisticated with its simple drawings and text. However, Fukuzawa was introducing not only clothing, utensils and interior items, but introducing many of the English names by which many of these things are still known today. The section on Western table manners is classic and I've translated it below.
Seiyô ishokujyû was published ninety-eight years before Take Ivy, the well-known book that introduced an American Ivy League style to postwar Japan, and explores many of the themes that have consistently remained at the center of these types of magazines and books. If the postwar period in Japan was one of intense ferment and economic growth, the period after the ratification of the 1859 trade treaties was arguably an even more intense period of growth in which new technologies and concepts from the West were adopted by Japan. Perhaps one of the most significant of these was the adoption by the Japanese Government in June 1873 of a new conception of time, the Gregorian Calendar and the twenty four hour day, something most of us take for granted. Seiyô ishokujyû was published in 1867, five years in advance of this calendar change and shows the 'moment in time' when Japan was standing between two eras. Nowhere is this clearer than in the final pages of this book when Fukuzawa, explaining how to read Western watches, was also thereby introducing a new concept of time. Though long forgotten by many, the shift to a concept that understood day and night as part of a single twenty-four hour day, which meant the abolishment of the traditional Japanese framework of two different six hour cycles, one for day and one for night, must have been nothing short of revolutionary.
Men's Club 1972, Special Ivy Issue No. 1. Amazing issue chock full of photos of proto-prep emerging from the hippyness of the late 1960s and early 1970s, if it ever really fully emerged from the hippy influence. 1970s prep always had a bit of scruffiness to it.
Men's Club, 12/1978 "American Traditional." Full-on late 1970s prep with the notable inclusion of prep schools and The Prep Shop.
Men's Club, 12/1979 "What is Preppie?" A year before The Official Preppy Handbook, Men's Club was busy reporting on and categorizing the reality that was prep in late 1970s America.
Men's Club, 12/1981 "Ivy - Part 2, Dressing Manual" I only have one of these, but there are several issues that include photos of colleges from this period.
LAST, 5/2003 No. 1. There are also magazines dedicated to only shoes. This is the launch issue of LAST, which is still being published.
Men's EX, 10/2002 "High Grade Shoes - A Reader" Men's EX has published several of these, of which the launch issue is arguably the best. I covers the full range of quality men's shoes the world over by country, including bespoke makers.
Men's EX, 7/2007 "Italian Fashion - Q&A" This issue is a minor masterpiece. I am more prep-Anglophile, but there is much here that makes perfectly good sense.
And, the above issue of LEON was pretty amazingly organized. The thoughts of these men make for interesting reading.
Free & Easy, 1/2010 "The Garment Tweed." This is basically a textbook about tweed, its history and manufacture. It even distinguishes the various types of sheep according to region. It is a noteworthy issue for anyone interested in tweed.
Men's Precious, Spring 2011. The name is what it is because there is a women's magazine titled Precious, by the same publisher. This issue had a feature on England's Royal Warrants titled, "Fabulous Royal Warrant!" It's another textbook-like look at the British institution of the Royal Warrant. For anyone who considers themselves even a luke-warm Anglophile, it would be essential reading.
Snap LEON, 6/2011. LEON comes out with these a couple of times a year, which feature photos mainly of Pitti Uomo. The issues are organized into sections on jackets, suits, trousers, shoes and further organized by color. Not always my own style, but exceedingly entertaining and extremely well put together - definitely a night stand magazine. This sort of magazine exhibits the best of the above magazines - traveling the world over to get the story on menswear, in the tradition of what Fukuzawa began in 1867, but continued in today's context. Each of the above magazines is a bit different, but the methodology of categorization is essentially the same - focusing on clothing, food and interiors.
Viewed today, this small book might appear deceptively unsophisticated with its simple drawings and text. However, Fukuzawa was introducing not only clothing, utensils and interior items, but introducing many of the English names by which many of these things are still known today. The section on Western table manners is classic and I've translated it below.
Westerners do not use chopsticks. Meats and other items are arranged on a plate in larger pieces, and then each is cut in turn into smaller pieces with a knife held in one's right hand, then eaten with a fork in one's left hand. Putting food directly into one's mouth by the end of one's knife is considered bad manners. Soup is placed in a shallow plate and eaten (lit. drunk) with a spoon. It is also considered bad manners to make noise when consuming soup and tea.
It is, of course, still considered so.
Seiyô ishokujyû was published ninety-eight years before Take Ivy, the well-known book that introduced an American Ivy League style to postwar Japan, and explores many of the themes that have consistently remained at the center of these types of magazines and books. If the postwar period in Japan was one of intense ferment and economic growth, the period after the ratification of the 1859 trade treaties was arguably an even more intense period of growth in which new technologies and concepts from the West were adopted by Japan. Perhaps one of the most significant of these was the adoption by the Japanese Government in June 1873 of a new conception of time, the Gregorian Calendar and the twenty four hour day, something most of us take for granted. Seiyô ishokujyû was published in 1867, five years in advance of this calendar change and shows the 'moment in time' when Japan was standing between two eras. Nowhere is this clearer than in the final pages of this book when Fukuzawa, explaining how to read Western watches, was also thereby introducing a new concept of time. Though long forgotten by many, the shift to a concept that understood day and night as part of a single twenty-four hour day, which meant the abolishment of the traditional Japanese framework of two different six hour cycles, one for day and one for night, must have been nothing short of revolutionary.
Mechanical clocks were first introduced to Japan in the 16th century through Jesuit missionaries and Portuguese traders. Eventually, however, Japanese clocks were produced that reflected a Japanese understanding of time. Japanese clocks divided the day into six hours for daytime and six hours for night time. Each of these "hours" was longer than the hour that we measure time by today. These clocks also allowed for the adjustment of time in changing length of daylight time during the summer and the winter months. Rather than a circular dial common on Western clocks, many Japanese clocks were long and slender "pillar clocks" (shaku dokei) that would have hung on a post or pillar in a home, and which had an hour hand that moved up and down a track on the clock case. This is why Fukuzawa takes such care in explaining how to read a Western style pocket watch in the section that follows below at the end of this book.
In translating the Japanese text following the illustration of the watch, I have attempted to remain as true to the original text as possible, so that some of the strange difference in the reckoning of time that Fukuzawa sought to carefully explain to Japanese readers might still hopefully be felt by readers in English.
Though watches are outside the confines of clothing, food and interiors, in the West church bells measure time, and there are all manner of watches and their customs. Recently in Japan, too, imported watches have gradually become fashionable. Though there are many uninitiated persons who possess watches, and yet do not understand how to read them. Therefore, at the end of this book about clothing, food and interiors, I will write about how to understand these watches.
In the West, one day is measured by twenty four hours; and accordingly, one of these hours is one half of one hour in Japan. One of these hours is divided into sixty parts, of which one part is called a 'minute'. In the same way, one minute is divided into sixty parts, of which one part is called a 'second'. In this way, one second becomes the basic pulse for the movement of time. Now, the watch dial is divided into twelve parts, with the hour hand devised to go completely around the dial twice in one day, and likewise, the minute hand to go around the dial twenty-four times. Beginning with noon, and again with twelve midnight, the hour and minute hands correctly align with one another to display the twelfth hour. From here, time gradually moves toward the right, and when the hour hand points to the first hour, the minute hand will have gone around the dial once measuring sixty minutes, upon which it returns to the twelfth hour marker. From here time moves forward and when the hour hand is in between the first and the second hour, the minute hand will have taken thirty minutes to move half way around the dial, and will have come precisely to the sixth hour marker. Therefore, the way of reading the time is that one should first look at the hour hand and then at the minute hand. For example, when the hour hand is between the ninth and the tenth hour, and the minute hand points to the second hour marker, the time can be said to be ten minutes past nine. In other words, this ten minutes of time can be said to be the amount of time that has elapsed since the minute hand left the twelfth hour marker. Again, when the hour hand is approaching the tenth hour, having moved beyond midway between the ninth and the tenth hours, and the minute hand has arrived at the eighth hour marker, the time can be said to be twenty minutes before ten. In other words, this twenty minutes means that it will take twenty minutes for the minute hand to reach the twelfth hour marker. In any case, the minute hand begins at the twelfth hour marker and the sixty minutes on the dial are counted based on this. From this one can know what hour and minute it is. The watch in the illustration indicates twenty-two minutes past nine. The second hand goes completely around the dial in one minute. However, when reckoning the time, seconds are not counted.
Of course, even today, Fukuzawa's description of the telling of time by only using the hours and minutes is the way most of us tell the time in our daily lives. I know of no one who when asked will say, "it is 9:10 and 30 seconds" - unless they are actively timing something or being a bit persnickety. Fukuzawa could also probably not have imagined how one second could be be measured by much smaller intervals such as 1/1000 of a second. The upcoming London Oympics will, of course, show the latest developments in this sort of timekeeping.
Many magazines today include cars, watches, books, music, film and travel, categories that Fukuzawa may or may not have included had most of them existed in 1867. In any event, Fukuzawa set his parameters on articles needed for basic daily life in the West. The concept of leisure pursuits, as we think of them today, had not yet fully developed, at least not as something accessible to most people.
If you are a follower of the Japanese press, the next time you open a Japanese magazine featuring clothing, food and interior items consider how long this sort of thing has been going on. It helps me appreciate the level at which most of these publishers operate at, month in and month out. Styles may come and go, but this sort of thoroughgoing ability to categorize the experience of daily life is what seems amazingly constant.
Men's Precious, Summer 2012 "Catalog of British Quality Articles." And so, here we are seemingly back at the beginning. Fukuzawa published Seiyô ishokujyû 145 years ago, and the cataloging of "quality articles" is still going strong - and Winston Churchill still looks great.
Men's Precious, Summer 2012 "Catalog of British Quality Articles." And so, here we are seemingly back at the beginning. Fukuzawa published Seiyô ishokujyû 145 years ago, and the cataloging of "quality articles" is still going strong - and Winston Churchill still looks great.