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Though not as colorful and playful as tartan flannel, medium-grey flannel and cavalry twill trousers are workhorses that go quietly about their daily business during these winter months. They pair well with tweed jackets, flannel blazers and a variety of sweaters, making them eminently useful. Along with corduroy, moleskin, and flannel lined khakis, these trousers have a special place in the wardrobe and are indispensable during the colder months ahead. While I don't remember my first pair of flannel trousers, I do remember going to a local men's shop with my father when I was in junior high to get fitted for a pair of medium-grey flannels. The gentleman who took my measurements seemed pleased when I told him that I indeed wanted cuffs and that I planned to use the penny loafers I was wearing with the flannels. Many years later, I also remember a pair of cavalry twills from Huntington Clothiers that I wore until they simply wore out. My wardrobe habits haven't changed much in the intervening years. Medium-grey flannels and cavalry twills are simple and useful daily wardrobe staples for colder weather.
The two pairs of trousers pictured above come from J. Press (flannels on the left) and O'Connell's (cavalry twills on the right). They are obviously made by the same maker, though I really don't know who that maker is. The construction on both pairs of trousers is identical, except that the J. Press trousers have slanted front pockets and the O'Connell's have on-seam front pockets. Both are flat front and run very true to size - not slim fit, but certainly not relaxed either.
The label placement and inner construction on both trousers is the same. These are both a standard or regular rise trouser that are extremely comfortable all day.
While J. Press calls their flannels "medium-grey" and O'Connell's calls the cavalry twills "charcoal," they are both a very similar shade of deep medium-grey, in contrast to a charcoal grey that is nearly black. Both trousers also have a traditional watch pocket located just above the right front pocket.
Finished identically on the inside, both are made in the USA, which I am finding to be somewhat of a rarity today. The cavalry twills on the top came with brace buttons, which I removed, revealing red marker dots which must have guided their original placement.
Cavalry twills have a steeply woven twill surface that is shown here with a pair of wide wale grey corduroy trousers for comparison. While the J. Press flannels are heavyweight, the cavalry twills are extremely heavyweight.
It is very hard to capture color accurately. For example, of the three pairs of trousers shown above, the pair on the left are charcoal grey (almost black), while the center (J. Press) and right (O'Connell's) are medium-grey. While I do wear very dark charcoal grey flannels with navy flannel blazers and lighter grey tweed jackets, I find that winter weight trousers in medium-grey are the ones that I reach for most often.
I also have another pair of medium-grey J. Press flannels (on the right, above) that are a bit lighter in color and weight. The construction of these is also a bit different than the two already shown above. Which is to say that both J. Press and O'Connell's offer a variety of winter weight trousers in medium-grey. In addition to flannel and cavalry twill, one can also find, whipcord, covert, and a variety of tweeds from these clothiers. The weather will only get colder, and fortunately, J. Press and O'Connell's regularly stock winter weight trousers for men.
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In a world where many nations' goods are increasingly manufactured beyond their borders, it is often a pleasant surprise to find quality goods that reflect various national traditions. This can probably be said for many nations where traditions of craftsmanship and manufacture have increasingly been turned over to factories in different parts of the world. This is the world in which we live, and it's probably not going to change. However, it is also important to recognize that traditions and what nations produce (or do not produce) have an influence upon the rise and the decline of national character and culture. In other words, what a nation produces has an impact upon a nation's history and upon its values. When I see trousers like these; Shetland wool sweaters and tweeds from Scotland; shoes from Northampton, England; printed silk and woven woollen fabrics from Italy, I know that I am looking at something that is, at the same time, beginning to vanish from the face of the earth: Articles, often handmade, that reflect the industry and pride of national histories. These kinds of articles are often a bit more expensive than other similar looking articles, but being well-made will last for years. Moreover, like owning small pieces of increasingly rare national treasure, these kinds of articles also represent good value. The weather is only going to get colder. Next to utilitarian tan cords so beloved by many, medium-grey flannels and cavalry twills are solid choices to face the cold, rain and snow in the months ahead.
