This is the second part in a two-part series about Brooks Brothers' iconic Candy Stripe button-down collar shirts. In Part 1, we took a quick look at two shirts, one contemporary and the other from the late 1980s. This is similar to a comparison I did a couple of years ago of Brooks Brothers' classic blue oxford button-downs. For me, the Brooks Brothers blue candy stripe oxford cloth button-down is one of the great classics that this company produced. It is the first shirt I remember purchasing over three decades ago at the old 74 E. Madison Street store in Chicago. The appeal of this shirt lies, I think, in its ability to go with nearly anything from suits and jackets, to khakis and Bermuda shorts. More than any other striped shirt this shirt seems to be able to manage breaking the rule of no striped ties with striped shirts. Even Brooks brothers advertised it paired with regimental striped ties.
Compared with broadcloth and pinpoint oxford, there is an inherent informality about regular weight oxford cloth that seems to appeal to men young and old. I remember the father of one of my college friends, who became a good friend and mentor, as almost always wearing a burgundy or blue candy stripe shirt, khakis or cords and Sperrys. It was just a part of who he was. The popularity of this shirt, of course, spread beyond men and became a beloved favorite among women wearers, as well. The popularity among women was so intense that Brooks Brothers actually had to make a women's model, commissioning Vogue to design it in 1949. The pink button-down is perhaps the most well-known example of this. It is truly a testament to Brooks Brothers that this shirt has been so long lived. In a world of constant change, the continued presence of the Brooks Brothers polo collar button-down candy stripe oxford is one of those comforting touchstones.
Our three main shirts for comparison are:
Collar thinness. Years ago, a Brooks Brothers button-down collar shirt could be instantly recognized merely because of its collar. The collar was constructed without an inner lining, meaning it was merely constructed of the inner and outer pieces of oxford cloth. When starched and pressed this gave the collar an elegant thinness that went well with a suit and tie. Worn unpressed, the collar rolled with a certain "Brooksy" casual nonchalance. In recent years, I have wondered why the current Brooks Brothers oxfords no longer have this kind of construction. The problem seems to lie in the fact that contemporary shirt collars all contain linings that are probably supposed to help the collar keep its shape, but which actually work against this kind of shape keeping. The fact of the matter being that the unlined collar was the original polo collar shape. Let's take a look below. Each shirt has been commercially starched and pressed.
Cuff thinness. The same principles of construction mentioned above with regard to the collar can be said to apply to cuffs. Unlined cuffs, when pressed and starched are quite thin. When touched they sound a bit like parchment and added a bit of quiet calm to a suit or a jacket.
Summary:
Measurements:
Shoulders: 18.5"
Chest: 53"
Length: 32.5"
Weight: 392 grams (13.83 ounces)
This shirt is still made by Brooks Brothers in its Garland, North Carolina shirt factory. That Brooks Brothers has kept production of this legendary shirt in the USA is much to its credit. The fabric is substantial and the color is a slightly grayer shade of blue than the others below. That this shirt weighed the most was perhaps due to its slightly heavier fabric, larger proportions and linings. This is a well made shirt that will stand up to years of use. However, this shirt could be improved. Removal of the collar and cuff linings would do a lot to make this shirt more like the Brooks Brothers' shirts of legend. There is more to a shirt than its label. In part one we also noted that the width of the cuffs on the contemporary shirt were wider than those of the older model. These narrower cuffs were also a hallmark of a Brooks Brothers 'Makers' shirt. However, the contemporary shirt still represents good value for money. Grade: B+
Measurements:
Shoulders: 18.25"
Chest: 50.5"
Length: 31.00"
Weight: 339 grams (11.96 ounces)
This shirt was made at Brooks Brothers' old Paterson, New Jersey shirt factory. It probably dates from the late 1980s, as was noted in part one. As can be seen by the measurements, this shirt, while full size, was a bit trimmer than the traditional size of today. I have long thought that this was the case, and the measurements bear it out. This gives a bit of a trimmer silhouette without sacrificing traditional comfort. The construction of this shirt as noted above is what continues to set it apart from Brooks Brothers contemporary models. The unlined collar, starched or not, is unmistakably Brooks Brothers. The slightly smaller clear plastic buttons were also a small but significant part of the Brooks Brothers difference. Sadly, this shirt is no longer available. If one is fortunate enough to find one in good condition, it still is the gold standard by which all Brooks Brothers shirts are measured. Grade: A+
Measurements:
Shoulders: 18.75"
Chest: 47.5"
Length: 30.00"
Weight: 261 grams (9.21 ounces)
Huntington Clothiers made a great shirt for a fraction of the cost of a Brooks Brothers shirt. The fabric was not as heavy, but the construction was excellent. This shirt is well-worn, though when it is starched and pressed, the unlined collar and cuffs still manage to possess a kind of scruffy elegance. It is remarkable to me that two decades on from when this shirt was originally manufactured, and in spite of its well-worn character, it still does a better job of capturing that elusive sense of "Brooksiness" that the contemporary Brooks Brothers shirt struggles a bit with. Grade: A-
